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WR 250R Stator testing.

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Hey Tribe, thought I'd upload a quick and dirty 1 take, testing Athenas A/C current as suggested by you. What do you think? I can't find whether or not those readings are in spec. Seems to be ample voltage for the RR eh? I'd love to hear your comments on it below :) Much love for watching!
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Text Comments (76)
FrassonRacing (4 years ago)
I am in the same boat. I just got done with a full rebuild on my 01 yz250f and got it put together and was so excited to start it, I forgot to plug in a wire and after kicking it, somehow when we plugged the wire back in, it fried the stator.
Magnus Fugleberg (4 years ago)
I toughet you had 450f
Jace Tirrell (4 years ago)
Has anyone suggested the battery
SuperDrake79 (4 years ago)
Should be a little of
Woody (4 years ago)
I had sort-of the same problem, i chanced the stator and still no charging, turned out it was a blown fuse, maybe that's your case to?
tojejik Yo (4 years ago)
"but anyhow, I thought that was maybe a little bit of" *NOP*
Moto Jake (4 years ago)
I have an question how do u get your music for your intro and outtro and the music in your videos what do u use. Big fan by the way keep up the awesome work
Hebulba (4 years ago)
There's definitely something wrong with that stator. Every phase should output about 12 Volts at idle. The last phase was only giving you about 5 Volts. A couple years ago I had a similar problem where the charge in the battery of my bike didn't last more than a couple of hundred kilometers. It turned out to be fried stator. One of the phases didn't output enough voltage. I changed the stator and after that it worked brilliantly.  Still it seems there's also something else wrong with Athena if you already tried a new stator. That will most probably be the regulator or short in one of those wires. 
Moto Virus (4 years ago)
Should check all wires on the bike, there is a little evil troll monster that musta ate the wire, it's a lot of work but u will find the problem😔
chicano499 (4 years ago)
noooooooo what was it a little bit of!?? :(
iTzShane100 (4 years ago)
There is not a problem with either the starter or the reg/rec because if there was from what Iv seen in the last video it was on 13volts a battery when it is fully charged is only ment to hold 13 and a half volts and when it's charging on the bike its ment to charge at 14 volts I am only saying this because you will be wasting money on new parts for it and as I am a qualified bike mechanic I thought I would share it with you if you have any other problems it might be the magnets on the starter ain't getting contact with the engine when it turns over
H3ntairican (4 years ago)
Nice can you also turn the bike on and just unplug the battery termenals while the bike is on to see if it stays on like a car?
Schmidy76 (4 years ago)
@H3ntairican no problem man like I say it just sounded weird, I've seem to have a problem that when stuff works for others it doesn't for me haha
H3ntairican (4 years ago)
@Schmidy76 hmmm seems like we have a predicament here I'm gonna have to check this when I have time its been a years since I've did this no lie
Schmidy76 (4 years ago)
@H3ntairican I suppose I should've asked which terminal your pulling off because if your pulling the positive I can see the alternator supplying power come to think of it
Schmidy76 (4 years ago)
@H3ntairican they keep running because the stator(basically the same as an alternator) is linked to the firing system, it's cool that your method works for ya it's just weird to me because every time I've done it the vehicle has died and the alternators have always been good, and the battery isn't just for starting that's why if the alternator does out while your driving you can keep going until the battery is drained
H3ntairican (4 years ago)
@Schmidy76 well I've tried on a bunch of different cars and they only turn off when the alternator is bad I'm pretty sure a battery is only to turn the car on the alternator does the rest bro how comes a dirt bike that's only kick start with no battery stay on then or a lawnmower they ain't diesel yo
transdetendal (4 years ago)
@AccidentalBroadcast if you cant get whats needed in hawaii or need parts shiped or prices checked im willing to get you things sent directly or pricing for it , whatever youll need you just ask !!
ZoopRusty (4 years ago)
I would say when the stator fried, it burned short some of the coils on the third phase (heats up to a point where the enameled wire loses it's coating and shorts partially in some of the coils). That's why it has a much lower voltage on the third phase (5 Volt AC instead of 12 Volt AC). When the stator fried, it probably damaged at least the pair of diodes on the rectifier (converts AC from stator into DC, over 30 Volt DC when reved, unacessible to probe) of the third phase, making the triphasic rectifier unbalanced (probably working only on 4 diodes now) which might be unable to provide enough power. That's why the new stator didn't work either. The fact that one of the branches of the rectifier burned, could make the regulator (acessible, located after the rectifier, it makes the DC voltage capped to 14ish Volt) work unproperly or not at all. Both the rectifier and regulator are incapsulated in that metal heatsink you showed us with the rubber grommets. It should be easy to swap to another and quickly see if it reaches 14 Volt DC on the cables that go to the battery. If the cables to the battery were completly shorted, you wouldn't see 12 Volt (or close) on the battery when it was plugged and the battery would drain completly in minutes/seconds. However, a resistive short or ocasional short while riding bumpy roads is possible. My move at this point would be to swap to the new stator, confirm the AC voltages are equal for the 3 phases in idle and when reved and then, swap the rectifier/regulator (same block) with a new/working one and probe for the 14 Volt with just a multimeter and as little motorcycle cables as possible (straight from the plug). If you confirm the present rectifier/regulator is damaged, you MUSTN'T re-use this old stator! If this stator damaged it, it will burn the new one you'll install next! Reinstall the new stator and confirm it is fine by redoing what you did in this video. PS: I am an electrical engineer and have experience in motorcycle mechanics.
The Daily Drive (4 years ago)
@MrCarlito1987 i agree with mr carlito...every number that's read in ac should be the same as each other. i am more ineterested in knowing if the battery is false voltage with a cell going out or if the regulator has internal wiring issues 
transdetendal (4 years ago)
@MrCarlito1987 i guess your right bout that , but i got a 5 volt out and a 12(14,8)v out on my generator going in the harness in my car , and jst wondered if it wasent like that here.would he be able toget the bike started without a battery with the wires connected to a battery eliminator like the oldschool cafe builds? if so he would be able to get things checked without "false" voltage from the battery!
MrCarlito1987 (4 years ago)
You are talking about 5v reference from the ECU for various sensors on modern autos n bikes. In an AC generator system all 3 phases need to be equal for proper function.
transdetendal (4 years ago)
Q: isnt there somewhere in a injection system on a bike,as a car ,where 5 volts are needed tosignal the injector and the co sensor? isent that the low voltage 3. lead? just asking couse in some modern cars that is how its wired, and ive only worked on olderbikes!
MrCarlito1987 (4 years ago)
My feeling too! i don't think he tried it, but takes 10 seconds to check stator coil resistance and is the quickest way to see a short on one of the phases.
gncc1race (4 years ago)
That's progress Brah.  MDF is definitely the one to listen to.  I've watched a ton of his videos, and his is the voice of reason!  Good luck Kalani.
Gal Magen (4 years ago)
i think that the starter is good and the issue is after it. can you show us the DC voltage after the regulator without the battery?
MrCarlito1987 (4 years ago)
The reg/rec is grounded directly to the body of the stator (black wire he talked about) which is bolted to the motor inside the cover AB should check continuity between battery negative and black wire at connector unplugged. Once that is sorted you are on mrduhfactor's road, checking with a different reg/rec and the entire 12v side wiring from battery, to fuse box (main) to the R/R
David Walker (4 years ago)
Best idea out of the rest. This will verify your ground for sure.
turgsh01 (4 years ago)
looks good to me
Dan Of The Day : (4 years ago)
haha how long did you carry on speaking to yourself after the camera cut out
KJ (4 years ago)
Little bit of what?! of what?!
Max DT (4 years ago)
Check your wires it seems like there's a broken one somewhere on your bike i had the same problem at 2 bikes, it was the brakelight in first case and one time there was a broken wire in front of the bike at the moving part of the fork... The charging from the stator was alright but after longer rides the battery began to die and the engine starts to do shit , sometimes its only such a shitty thing but build of the wires and check them all so you can be sure if they are alright before you buy expensive parts and it didn't work... ;) This could also be the reason why your stator looks toasted, hope you read this
Adam Hill (4 years ago)
Hmm thinking about it I think if it had demagnetized then you would still get high voltage under no load like that, it would just drop to virtually 0 as soon you tried to charge the battery with it.
Adam Hill (4 years ago)
The first two read 12v at idle but the third one only 5v which is a little weird but it still climbed to 30 when reved so maybe it's ok. Definitely isolate the rectifier next. It's kinda funny, the only thing that could really make a stator not work is a break or short in the copper windings, the dirt that was on it would have acted like an extra protective layer.
MrCarlito1987 (4 years ago)
Yes i noticed the last was mediocre
Felix (4 years ago)
I little bit of...
Connor Matsubara (4 years ago)
Nice
theyzwoodz (4 years ago)
Dude, There is Yamaha Ktm dealer around no ?  I trust KTM for a good fix on my dirt bikes. My YZ's go to Yamaha. But they get backed up at times . And will bring it to a Yamaha / KTM dealer. They sell both. Keep us updated .
ryanmcclan (4 years ago)
@theyzwoodz I've had bad luck with all of the brands by now. I wouldn't say there is a bad brand but there definately are bad runs of certain bikes. I've owned a fair share of headaches but those were the bikes that taught me how to wrench. I appreciate em now when I look back.  Oooh suspension you caught me on that one. That's the one thing I send out too. I'm able to rebuild forks and shock but I send all my stuff out for revalves. Yeah this channel is awesome. I went and rode with Mr. Mike last year and it was one of the best experiences I've ever had riding. All thanks to Kalani and this channel. Helped turn a mediocre beach vacation into something I'll remember forever.  Great talking to you as well. It's nice to discuss shit with people who don't pull everything right out of their ass.
theyzwoodz (4 years ago)
@ryanmcclan Trust me i get it. I worked with Honda when i was young and lets just say will never do it again. They should have gave me a crate of plugs and jets and blue prints to keep it going. after setting for altitude . The YZ line is good to go out of the crate. And yes there are some bad shops.Over the years i have found Yamaha and KTM to be the best and worth the money. I can do all on my bikes but send out for my forks. On the YZ they are inverted . Good talking to a real rider on the net again. This channel is the shit. Now...Gotta go and get a snack and chill. Peace.
ryanmcclan (4 years ago)
@theyzwoodz Oh it's not that I am not able to buy a new bike. I could very easily buy a new bike and sell a few of my current bikes but it's not worth it IMO. I prefer to find em with 5-10 hours 1 or 2 model years old and grab em for 2-3k less than what the dude before me paid. I'll keep doing this and going through bikes with minimal financial losses.  Sorry you feel that way about thumpertalk. While there are people who have no clue what they are talking about it is generally very easy to weed through the bs and find what I'm looking for in terms of answers very quickly. I've had every one of my questions answered and haven't screwed anything up bad enough that I couldn't fix while following directions and advice given there. Mix this with RMATV tutorials, bikebandit videos, and the many other resources and you can find pretty much anything you want nowadays. I already get lots of free gear and parts from successful social media pages that I trade free stuff for advertising on. I'm running free name brand unbreakables, free name brand footpegs, free seat, free graphics, free grips, free pedals and shifters on my 6 bikes so no need for promo events and free stuff from dealers. My experiences with dealers here have sucked. I've tried and parts are all dumbasses and sales just haggle you and make you want to punch them in the face while I look at new bikes and almost talk myself into buying one. Service tries to scam everyone as well. Buddies have taken wheels in for NEW tubes and they come back and start leaking again. I'll pull the tires to find patched tubes when they were billed for a new tube and were told the tube was replaced. I am not dealing with that stuff. 
theyzwoodz (4 years ago)
@ryanmcclan Was on Dirt Rider for years. Was in the Mag with a full write up with pics for teck. And have been riding for 30 years and worked on all my bikes. Sorry but Thumper talk is just a lot of guys throwing shit against the wall and hoping some will stick. Sorry that you never bought a new bike, But most of never did as well. Work hard and if you REALLY want it you will do it. And yes, As soon as the bike leaves the shop you lost about 1k. That is just how it is. But if you have a relationship with the dealer even on a used bike you can walk your way into alot of FREE gear, Parts at dealer cost, Pro Mo stuff there sitting on for free. Jerseys ,pants, gloves. They want you back ! So if you do pull the trigger on a new bike who are you going first? Get with the program .Even if your just buying a chain or sprocket or cable. Have fun and be safe :) 
ryanmcclan (4 years ago)
@theyzwoodz I've gotten in over my head lots of times but, with great communities like thumpertalk and other motorcycle forums I have hundreds of thousands of other dudes to help me out and answer my questions. I got the power of all these other motorcycle enthusiast on my side when I tear into my bike and go into the unknown. I don't have relationships with any of the 20 or so dealers here in town. I've never bought a new bike nor do I plan to due to depreciation. I have bought parts once or twice when in a bind but I mainly steal parts from my other bikes now when in a tight turnaroud time. The days of being friends with everyone at the dealerships around town are slowly fading away.
DavidGProductions (4 years ago)
a little bit of what!?!
MrDuhfactor (4 years ago)
Saweet dude... That's what we needed to see. Now we can move on. Your stator is pumping out plenty of power, going up into the 30's when revved is what it's supposed to do. And it looks like your regulator is soft mounted, so apparently doesn't need a ground at the regulator itself. This is pointing to a bad regulator or regulator wiring from the regulator to your battery. If possible, although a pain in the butt, try to expose and trace the two wires (red and black?) from the regulator to your battery. Iook for any potential shorts, or disconnected plugs all the way to the battery. If there is a way to disconnect those two wires from the battery without disconnecting everything else, do so, run the bike, and check DC voltage coming out of those two wires. If it's lower than your battery voltage, it's likely still a bad regulator, if it's higher, then the regulator is OK, and we need to trace a short somewhere. I'll check the wiring in Minitstops manual tonight and have more instructions soon. Good job buddy!!
quadzmoto (4 years ago)
yes.. my suxiki had grimmlins.. im trying to suggest test each part standing alone..piece by piece.. could have chopped a wire some where.. if all the pieces check good then its a chopped wire..
Mattadv93 (4 years ago)
@MrDuhfactor I thought he replaced the regulator before he put the new stator in? He may of got a dud? Electrical problems can be a real pain. I nearly had to pull my whole bike apart looking for a short somewhere, didn't fined and and put my bike back together and it was fixed.... i just came to the conclusion my bike just had a electrical demon haha
quadzmoto (4 years ago)
what storxusmc is asking you to do is correct...OHMS..OHMS OHMS!!! not volts.. yes volts can work but your jumpimng to the third chapter of this book... do this step by step...PLEASE! ...leg 3 is low...
Izreal 3345 (4 years ago)
Yea u should move on to the rectifier IF THERE IS NO OIL IN THAT STATOR CASE
William (4 years ago)
PLEASE READ The rectifier is grounded through the bolts into the frame... the rubber stopper is just an anti-raddle deal... but the bolt physically touching the rectifier is grounding it out to the frame..  this is some stuff out of the manual i have in front of me Check the Main fuse, which is green 30A bladed fuse to the right of the battery, to assure they are not blown... "’03-on WR stators are wound with two separate coil outputs from the factory. One output charges the battery for the electric-start and the other output powers the stock lighting via its own AC circuit (no battery backup.) In stock form the battery cannot be used to power any lighting without becoming discharged. This modification joins the two existing stator outputs together into one and is necessary anytime the stock battery will be used to power a lighting system (such as a dual sport or HID system.)" Testing the Stator,  Resistances should all be within 0.168 - 0.252 ohms P=Posive lead on multimeter N=Negative lead on multimeter Testing Steps: P on White 1 on stator harness N on White 2 on stator harness Should all be within 0.168 - 0.252 ohms P on White 1 on stator harness N on White 3 on stator harness Should all be within 0.168 - 0.252 ohms P on White 2 on stator harness N on White 3 on stator harness Should all be within 0.168 - 0.252 ohms *typical signs of warn out or damaged stator is 1.0 ohms and greater, (typically 1.0-5.0 ohms for worn out stator) If any of the steps above result with resistances outside of 0.168 - 0.252 ohms, the stator will be required to be replace Charging System output test P on positive on battery N on negative on battery On 20VDC setting, 14.0 or greater should be displayed @ 5,000rpms "Before reinstalling the stator you can check your work by verifying with an Ohmmeter that the yellow and white wires from the stator have continuity only with each other and not with the metal body of the stator. There should be very low resistance (approximately .5 Ohm) between the yellow and white wires."
Ryan Burke (4 years ago)
Finally! Ok kalani so you can eliminate the stator now... now you need to check the r/r plug the stator into the rr and unplug the rr output to the battery and check its dc current you can also check the r/r by unplugging both ends and setting your multimeter to DIODE! As the r/r should only allow current to flow in one direction!
Silvie Fox (4 years ago)
rec is grounded thru the frame (like everything)id clean the bolts up a bit
TuonoMoto (4 years ago)
Have you changed the regulator before ? since i had same problem on my bike a old kawa 88 and changed my regulator and stator and now it runs good.
Martin Fisker (4 years ago)
"Maybe a little bit of..." the suspense is killing me
Caedoe (4 years ago)
Uhh.. the video cut off short?
CarletonJohnson (4 years ago)
Either way, lets hope it sheds more light on the situation
CarletonJohnson (4 years ago)
Has this only just gone up or is it Unlisted? 
R Boreham (4 years ago)
Sup Kalani
R Boreham (4 years ago)
No views?! Whaaaaa

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